The Scottish Highlands is one of the most challenging and exciting places
for winter climbing. It's a beautiful yet hostile mountain environment,
with unpredictable weather and wildly variable climbing conditions. It
always leaves a deep impression on anyone who climbs there.
The valley base for winter climbing courses and guided days out is the
Aviemore area of the newly formed Cairngorms National
Park.
The Cairngorm mountains, with their high
arctic plateau, are literaly on the doorstep and have the most reliable
winter climbing conditions in Scotland. The climbing
itself is nothing less than superb, wonderfully varied and with relatively
short approaches to many of the routes (although these approaches are
no pushover
if there's
a Cairngorm blizzard). Aviemore is also ideally placed for reaching other
major climbing
and
mountain
areas - for example, the Torridonian mountains, with their infinite mountaineering
possibilities, and Creag Meagaidh's impressive ice falls are both within
a day's
striking distance.
If you've not climbed in winter before, or you're looking to brush up your
skills, here's a few examples of what's on offer.
winter intro a short introductory course
of between 2 and 5 days can be arranged for just youself or with a partner.
After a morning's refresher on the basics of using axes and crampons,
you'll get to tackle a couple of the Cairngorms' quality winter
climbs. You can cut your teeth on a relatively easy snow gully
and on the following day, fight your way up a typical Cairngorm mixed
route. From day three onwards, conditions permitting, an early start
gives the opportunity of trying a bigger route in Torridon
or the far North West. In essence, these introductory days are all about
learning how to look after yourself in the pretty exciting conditions
often
encountered with Scottish winter climbing.
improvers there's
no substitute for experience when it comes to being a safe winter climber.
That's why new skills and techniques have to be learnt in real climbing
situations. Together we'll choose routes that willl not only create
good learning opportunities but also memorable climbing days. You'll
see a variety of snow and ice anchors being used, some cunning ways
to arrange protection and some innovative methods of belaying in snow.
There'll be plenty of practice at quickly evaluating snow conditions
and sussing out the safest approach or retreat from
a climb. There's even tips on how to navigate back to the car
when the weather craps out. It's advisable to book at least 2 days
of instruction if you're really intent on improving your skills. Based
in the Cairngorms for the first day with the option of climbing at Creag
Meagaidh or in
the North West
from day
2 onwards.
guiding winter climbing can be arranged
anywhere in the Highlands, whether its
to tick a 'Cold Climbs' classic or for a mission to discover the
far North West. Go ahead and broaden your winter climbing experience
and enjoy being guided. I'm quite happy to guide on routes of grade
I to V on snow and ice, and up to V 5 mixed, conditions permitting.
Guided winter climbing is available on a daily basis. However, if you
have your eyes on a particularly long or more serious route (e.g. a Liathach
ice climb or Tower Ridge), it may be necessary to check out your
current level of fitness and climbing ability on a shorter/easier climb,
which
will require an
extra day.
Prices,
booking info and further details can be found on the bookings
page. To see
some of the things we got up to in the past few winters, take
a look at the gallery
page or read the winter
07
or
winter 06 reviews.
It's worth noting a beginners winter climbing course can be tailored
to accommodate most abilities. Some previous rock climbing and/or winter
walking experience is a distinct
advantage but more important is a good level of fitness. For any winter
course or guided day out, having good mountain clothing is essential.
There's clothing and equipment advice on on the winter
kit list (pdf) or just get in touch with any questions.
All technical climbing equipment is provided including technical
axes and crampons.
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